If I were to make a list of ten things that I missed most from the States, eight of them would be food. (The other two would be my family and college football on the TV). And the food that I miss most is Southern food – biscuits and gravy, collards, proper fried chicken, hush puppies, corn bread, fried okra, barbecue so tender that it falls apart in your mouth. Waffle House.
After a week that started with the Antipodean Death Plague and went downhill from there, I was in need of some serious comfort food. With dinner guests scheduled for the evening, I had all the excuse I needed to cook up a big pot of New Orleans style cheer. What follows is not a recipe exactly, but the essential ingredients for A Free Man’s spirit refreshing gumbo.
The Music
More important than any spice is the right music. Dr. John, The Wild Tchoupitoulas, Galactic – any band that will evoke the spirit of New Orleans for you and summon up some gumbo gris gris. For me, it’s Jimmy Smith. While not a New Orleanian, his walking bass lines set just about the perfect mood. “Back at the Chicken Shack”
– soulful jazz that beats out a perfect stirring rhythm for…

The Roux
A gumbo without a roux is just stew. There’s something incredibly satisfying – almost zen like – about making a perfect roux. You use equal parts oil (I use peanut with a dash of sesame to give it a nice nutty flavor) and flour over medium to low heat. Stirring constantly until the roux darkens to a lovely milk chocolate color. If you cook it too far, throw it out and start again. It requires your complete attention and can take some time, but creating a beautiful roux is an exhilarating exercise.
The Okra
One of the toughest challenges of attempting to reproduce my favorite Southern cuisine abroad is the hunting and gathering of the ingredients. Try finding buttermilk in the Home Counties or collards in South Australia. But I’ve never had a great gumbo without okra, so the quest is essential. Fortunately, okra is not just a Southern delicacy. It’s used in a lot of Indian, African, Middle Eastern and Vietnamese dishes. Adelaide’s Central Market is a cornucopia of culinary oddities and I know just the stall in which to find the humble little fruit gives the finishing touch to a near perfect gumbo.
(Bonus of a lunchtime trip to the market: Bibim Bap from Sunmi’s Sushi Bar.)
The Gumbo
I’ve not really worked from a recipe on this one, but I took inspiration from Gumbo City and He Cooks, She Cooks. It tasted as good as it looked and most importantly, did the job. Belly full. Bad week in the rear view. Bright weekend ahead.

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Image credits:
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If you’re interested in a bit more Southern (dis)comfort from A Free Man, check out my review at Ask And You Shall Receive.


Dr. John - "Gris-Gris Gumbo Ya Ya": Play Now | Play in Popup | Download
The Wild Tchoupitoulas - "Big Chief Got A Golden Crown": Play Now | Play in Popup | Download
Jimmy Smith - "Minor Chant": Play Now | Play in Popup | DownloadPopularity: 22% [?]
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by Agnes
20 Feb 2009 at 22:09
How awesome is the word ‘gumbo’! Love it.
Now question: biscuits and gravy – what the hell are they? Here in Oz biscuits are what you lot call cookies. So what are biscuits in the US? Are they like rolls or something? I’m not going to google this as I have never been tempted to before – I’m going to wait for a true font of knowledge to tell me.
And while you at it, what are grits? And what in the lord’s name are hush puppies? Here they’re orthopedic shoes..I’m thinking in the US they’re something kinda different. Least I hope so.
And comment luv worked for me over at Gypsy’s blog but it doesn’t seem to like me here. Which is fine. Just weird.
by admin
20 Feb 2009 at 22:13
Biscuits and gravy: http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy_Southern_Style_Biscuits_and_Gravy/
Hush puppies: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hushpuppy
Grits: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grits\
by Teri
20 Feb 2009 at 22:31
mmmm. I’ll have to give this a try. My grandparents lived in North Carolina for a time. While visiting, I fell in love with the barbeque pork. I make my own here in Wisconsin.
Will try to make some authentic gumbo. There was a place we liked to go up here that served what I thought was good New Orleans food. But, only a true southerner would know, I guess.
Gotta get the day rolling.
Take care!
Teris last blog post..On the Up-side
by we_be_toys
20 Feb 2009 at 23:44
That is some mighty fine looking gumbo!
And I’m with Teris – North Carolina BBQ, well the Eastern variety, is the kind of thing one dreams of. (and the hushpuppies, shhh! It’s making me hungry))
Southern biscuits are the shiznet, but never mind that sausage gravy chile, just lay on some of that sausage!
Happy Weekend Ya’ll
by SSG
21 Feb 2009 at 00:31
Professor Booty?
So is that where you’re going to release all your negative feelings? A sort of virtual lab environment? Passive-agressive?
Nah, nice review dude. I wanna see you review one that gets the finger, I guess they’re breaking you in slowly.
SSGs last blog post..MrC’s Music Meltdown: Gigs
by The Unbearable Banishment
21 Feb 2009 at 00:49
You are 100% correct, my friend. There’s nothing more satisfying that having a big appetite while staring down a plate of southern fried chicken with all the accoutrements. In fact, I think I’ll get me some this weekend. (Yes, there are places where you can get authentic Southern cooking in New Jersey!)
The Unbearable Banishments last blog post..my cell phone jammer is outed in public
by muskrat
21 Feb 2009 at 00:50
Clearly, you need to come to the ATL for some bbq sometime. Fatt Matt’s, Daddy D’z, Harold’s, and Swallow at the Hollow are calling your name. I’d be a happy escort.
muskrats last blog post..friday confessional for february 20: i totally pissed in your kool-aid
by Nichole
21 Feb 2009 at 00:57
I’m going to have to disagree on the Eastern NC barbecue. That’s terrible stuff.
Nicholes last blog post..How to quiet a cough
by Cat
21 Feb 2009 at 01:04
I love me some jambalaya and crayfish etouffee, but I have to draw the line at gumbo. That slimy okra kills it for me.
by SouthernInsanity
21 Feb 2009 at 01:39
“And the food that I miss most is Southern food – biscuits and gravy, collards, proper fried chicken, hush puppies, corn bread, fried okra, barbecue so tender that it falls apart in your mouth. Waffle House.”
Wow. That makes me hungry – and I live in the South.
Now, what for lunch … fried chicken, barbecue or Waffle House?
by Theresa B
21 Feb 2009 at 02:18
Conversation between one of my fellow interns and a waitress upon moving to Louisiana:
Intern: “It says boudin balls on the menu. What are boudin balls?”
Waitress: “Balls made of boudin.”
Yes, it’s a whole different world there…
Theresa Bs last blog post..All Tied Up
by mickey
21 Feb 2009 at 02:32
I want to come to Adelaide for some gumbo! (Even though New Orleans is a little closer.)
Alas, It looks so delicious that I’m fairly certain there will be no leftovers remaining by the time I get there.
I woke up last night wanting to make some soup or stew of some type. Thank you for further inspiration.
mickeys last blog post..Interview 2009
by April
21 Feb 2009 at 02:57
Waffle house, yum!
Having a hubby who’s allergic to chicken, I have to say I miss fried chicken like my grandma makes (she’s not southern, but her chicken is). I’d make it but that’s a lot of mess just for me! We’ve yet to find a decent bbq place in the bay area, there are some, but I haven’t heard good things! I miss Buckingham’s, I like the smoky kind of bbq.
I’m not a fan of biscuits and gravy, I like biscuits and sausage though (I hate mushy bread).
I’ve never made gumbo, but before your post I’d never heard of a roux made with oil, I thought they were always made with butter. I learned something new today, thanks!
Aprils last blog post..Putting the “me” in mommy
by Gypsy
21 Feb 2009 at 03:07
Oh, drool.
My man makes the best damn fried chicken ever.
Gypsys last blog post..Facebook Fabulous
by chris
21 Feb 2009 at 03:48
My husband is a vegetarian and by proxy, I basically am too. But every once in awhile, I indulge my carnivore side and while I usually go for a perfectly cooked ribeye, I think the next time it’s going to have to be fried chicken or barbecue.
chriss last blog post..Hurly Burly
by mongoliangirl
21 Feb 2009 at 03:58
Nuttin’ bettah. Nuttin’.
mongoliangirls last blog post..And after…
by Brittany
21 Feb 2009 at 05:01
I hope our recipe helped a bit. After watching Top Chef two nights ago, I realized we should have allowed our roux to darken more, but it looks like you have that part down.
Brittanys last blog post..Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Cake
by Here In Franklin
21 Feb 2009 at 07:20
I once had a Cajun friend (Mougeot) who judged his roux not by the color, but by how many beers he drank while stirring it…for gumbo, I’d say you need about 2 1/2.
Here In Franklins last blog post..The Last Picture Show
by Agnes
21 Feb 2009 at 08:54
Ohhhhhh now I get why you’re all a-cravin’. That’s batter heaven that is! Mouth watering after checking out all those recipes!
by alice
21 Feb 2009 at 10:49
Oh, my! That truly looks like it rivals Ralph’s most famous Best Gumbo Ever! The secret is all in the slow-cooked roux — oh, yes!
alices last blog post..People Love the Python
by NATUI
21 Feb 2009 at 11:25
That looks fabulous. I hope your heart was as warm as your belly.
And next time, throw a little Marcia Ball in the music mix. She does not disappoint. My favs include Mobile, Blue House, La Ti Da, and Thibodaux (I love the zydeco groove on this one).
NATUIs last blog post..Killer Tigers, Freecycle and Disney
by Joe
21 Feb 2009 at 16:07
That really makes me wish that I liked gumbo.
You mentioned biscuits and gravy… this is the best recipe I’ve ever had for it:
http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/Super-Sausage-Gravy/Detail.aspx
I’m sure it’s not the “Southern style” that you were talking about, but it’s yummy.
Joes last blog post..Suck On This – Part II
by Angel
21 Feb 2009 at 23:28
Oh that looks really good! I need to try harder in the kitchen.
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by Sunday mission « It All Started With Carbon Monoxide
22 Feb 2009 at 16:34
[...] check out A Free Man’s yumbo gumbo recipe, along with explanations in the comment section of what biscuits and gravy and grits and hush [...]
by Jud
22 Feb 2009 at 17:22
A man after my own stomach! I love big, fluffy cat-head biscuits, with real butter and some nice saw-mill gravy. Or, if you are old school, but a little black strap molasses on a saucer and drag your biscuit through it. Your molasses is too thin if it doesn’t rip your biscuit in half about halfway on it’s trip across the saucer.
Gumbo is wonderful, as is most cajun food. As to the texture of okara when cooked, one of my Pop’s favorite sayings was “he’s slicker than a bucket of boiled okra”.
I think I would be remiss if I didn’t mention a big pot of pinto beans with a ham bone in them to cook down, and a skillet full of corn bread, crispy on the bottom and soft and hot on the inside, maybe baked up with a touch of sugar or honey for sweetness.
Greens are delicious, too, with a few squirts of pepper sauce for flavoring; you prefer collards, I like turnip greens, but both are mighty fine.
What about home pies with crusts so flaky because they were made with real lard? There are some things special about the Deep South. *singing* “I’m glad I live in Dixie, Hurrah, hurrah….”
Juds last blog post..I May be Late to the Party…
by jams O'Donnell
23 Feb 2009 at 07:43
That sounds delicious
jams O’Donnells last blog post..The cat and the Moon – W B Yeats
by Jessica K
23 Feb 2009 at 16:10
Ha! I was going to say the same thing as Here In Franklin… Was it a one or a two beer roux? You know, I can teach you to make some good ol’ southern gravy (the white kind with sausage in it… YUM), but I stink at biscuits and have to buy mine frozen.
Also, Dr. John records at my dad’s buddy’s studio, and my dad worked with him back in his Macon days. I’ve got LOTS of Dr. John albums floating around the house.
Your gumbo looks great, and I’m SO glad you’re feeling better!
Jessica Ks last blog post..Gardening… The beginning or the end?
by Coal Miner's Granddaughter
24 Feb 2009 at 13:34
Dude. You mean I have to come all the way to Australia for good gumbo?!? Not Louisiana?
Cool.
And I know what you mean about missing food. I’m only 500 miles from my hometown and I miss ma ramps!
Coal Miner’s Granddaughters last blog post..Dialog, Part 21
by bluestreak
08 Mar 2009 at 04:44
Food is definitely 80% of homesickness. Growing up in the Southwest, for me it´s Mexican food. God I´d do anything sometimes for some fresh chips n salsa.
bluestreaks last blog post..A Day in the Life of an Unemployed Blues
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